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| The Berlin Wall with the death strip |
I was in Tegel by about 7:00 and took the U-Bahn [the underground] through to Friedrichstrasse: there are 3 unused stops before Friedrichstrasse after one has passed under the border… the stations are dimly lit, deserted apart from a single armed guard who nods to the U-Bahn driver as he passes through.
East Germany felt far more foreign than anywhere else I’d visited. Even the Western half of Germany seemed much more like home. It was more silent, with streets more deserted, and more heavily policed than I’d ever seen elsewhere.
I felt alien and depressed in East Berlin… The buildings are imposing, rather too imposing – cold, unwelcoming, inhuman… I wandered down Unter den Linden: it’s magnificent… but the whole is empty at night, forlorn, lifeless. At the end is the Brandenburg Gate, flying the East German flag, while over to the right the West German banner flies above the old Reichstag. The wall runs along in between, and I didn’t dare approach too closely… the place was swarming with guards.
The visit became less painful when I had got to know a few people. On 17 July, a new friend, Friedrich, took me on a trip out of East Berlin to a concert in an old monastery in the countryside.
Off to Kloster Chorin in the morning – the S-Bahn [overground train] … passes at one point between the inner and outer walls, and one has a clear view of the Grenzgebiet [border zone] with the watch towers, tank traps and barbed wire.
As a Westerner myself, I was allowed out to West Berlin whenever I chose, a privilege only available to East Germans once they drew their pensions. On the far side of that wall, I saw the crosses to the people who’d made the attempt, and failed, to cross that death strip.
In the evening after the concert, Friedrich took me around to a flat where a group were enjoying a pleasant evening. The advantage of being in someone’s flat is that everyone could speak openly. One of the older people told me that he felt the lack of personal incentive in the East German economy was doing it terrible damage.
He also told me about a Russian friend who had served in the Soviet army in Berln at the end of the Second World War. It took a lot of effort with the bureaucracy, but in the end he was able to invite him to his place. But throughout his visit, the Russian and his wife spent their time glued to the TV, watching the western news, which Berliners could receive.
It’s fashionable today to decry the ‘mainstream media’ or ‘MSM’ in the West, but when you’ve had to live in a regime where nothing is broadcast other than propaganda, the ‘MSM’ is like a drink to a man dying of thirst.
There’s no doubt that the regime went in for some serious torturing and executing, but I naturally saw none of that. To me, what it seemed mostly to be was stultifying, stifling every creative or individualistic urge of its citizens. They had food, they had shelter, they had healthcare, they had education, but they longed for the freedom their TVs showed their fellow Germans just a few hundred metres away enjoying.
As I travelled home, I wrote up my general impressions of the country:
… if someone like Friedrich is at all typical, then the East German is learning to live with the regime, getting on as best he can within the rules, bending or twisting them as far as possible – ‘Trick’ is a catchword in the DDR. This, in a sense, is a form of reconciliation to the regime, but in another sense it shows that there is also no love of it, that the people distance themselves from it morally. There is no support for it. As Sprössig [a doctor I met] points out, if a free election could be held tomorrow, 80% would vote the SED [the ruling party] out of power. When asked, he reckoned much the same majority would vote for reunion with West Germany.
Neither of us could see it coming, but the process that would lead to reunification was just over seven years away. That was the fall of the ugliest symptom of the regime that I saw while I was there: the Berlin Wall. On 9 November 1989, 30 years ago today, it was finally breached. It had only lasted a little over 28. It’s been gone longer than it was in place.
That’s a matter for celebration. A reminder that we can put the autocrats back in their boxes. Something we badly need to do again today.
Why? Because no achievement for freedom is ever secure for all time. To protect it requires sustained, repeated effort.
Indeed, one comment I made on my visit has proved completely mistaken
… what an effect [German reunification] would have: Strauss [then leader of the CDU’s sister party, the CSU] and the CDU [Christian Democrats, the German Conservatives] in general would have nothing to cheer about, the newly absorbed people would vote very solidly for the SPD [the Social Democrats]
It seemed to me that a people that had got used to free comprehensive healthcare and education and the basic necessities of existence, would never line up with the right. How wrong I was. It’s in the old East Germany that the far right today is strongest. It seems that being a victim of oppression doesn’t necessarily mean that you refuse to join the oppressors yourself later.
We can enjoy the thirtieth anniversary of the fall of the wall. But there are no laurels to rest on. Above all, we need to discover its spirit again.
